prop

Aurora. Her name is Aurora. Why is that so hard for people to remember? And if you do call her Aurora, no one knows who you are talking about. Just one of my pet peeves I guess. I know it doesn’t even matter. I mean, whether I know Sleeping Beauty is called Aurora or not…it’s not going to keep me out of heaven (unless I do in a mad rampage and declare a personal vendetta against everyone who doesn’t know her name…but that is drastic! And not going to happen).

Anyways, I’ve made several Crochet patterns for a few of the Disney Princceses already: Cinderella, Tinkerbell, Rapunzel, and Alice in Wonderland (even though some of those aren’t technically princesses). I’m in the process of updating my current patterns, but most of the afore mentioned can be found in my Etsy shop. So, when I had someone ask me for a Sleeping Beauty crochet pattern, I cringed a little inside, because she does have a name, and then I happily set to work!

Unfortunately, I’ve only finished the 0-6 month crochet pattern so far. But, fortunately, because I also haven’t had this Crochet Pattern tested, you get to enjoy it for *FREE*!! It comes with the crochet pattern to make a dress that will fit A typical infant in the 0-6 month clothing range, a crown, and a pair of precious little slippers.

I sure would appreciate some feedback on this pattern as well, since it is untested.

So, What Do You Need To Make You Own?

Hook size H/8 – 5.00MM
Hook size F/5 – 3.75MM
Worsted weight yarn in desired colors (I like using Red Heart Super Saver or Caron Simply Soft, but any brand should work just fine) in medium pink and light pink, white, and gold.
Any additional embellishments to make the dress pretty!
Large buttons for back closure.
Tapestry needle is optional for sewing in ends

What Crochet Stitches Are Used In This Pattern?

Ch – Chain – YO, pull through
Ss – Slip Stitch – Insert hook, YO, pull through both loops on hook
Sc – Single Crochet – Insert hook, YO, pull through, YO, pull through both loops on hook
Sc2tog – Single Crochet 2 Together – Insert hook into first stitch, YO, pull through, insert hook into second stitch, YO, pull through, YO, pull through all loops on hook
Hdc – Half Double Crochet – YO, insert hook, YO, pull through, YO, pull through all loops on hook
Dc – Double Crochet – YO, insert hook, YO, pull through, YO, pull through one loop on hook, YO, pull through remaining loop on hook
HTrc- Half Treble Crochet – YO twice, insert hook, YO, pull through, YO, pull through one loop on hook, YO, pull through remaining loops ok hook.

Is The Gauge Important For This Crochet Pattern?

Yes, yes, yes, yes. It is! It doesn’t take long to work a gauge swatch, and it could mean the difference between making a preemie dress, or a 6-month sized dress. Just suck it up, Crochet the swatch, take the measurements, frog it, and then work the pattern. Alright?

With h hook, ch 21

ROW 1: sc in second chain from hook and all the way across (20)

ROW 2: ch 1, turn, sc all the way across (20)

ROW 3: ch 2, turn, D.C. All the way across (20)

Repeat Row 2, Repeat ROW 3, Repeat ROW 2 again and finish off.

Your swatch should measure 2.25 x 6 inches, adjust your hook accordingly ☺

On To The Crochet Pattern!!!

Say Yes To This Dress

Dress is worked from the bottom up. Starting with h-sized hook and ruffle color (white), ch 77

RND 1: Sc in second ch from hook and all the way around. (76) being careful not to twist, ss to first sc to join into a large circle.

RND 2: (Scallop round) Repeat the following all the way around: *skipping the next two stitches, work 7 dc into the third. Skip the next two sc and ss into the third*. There should be a total of 13 scallops.

Finish off.

Working on the other side of the starting chain, insert light pink. Work RND 3 into the front loops only.

RND 3: (Ruffle round) ch 4, ss in the second space. Repeat the following all the way around: *ch 4, skip first space and ss in the second*. Ss to first to join (39 ruffles). Finish off.

RND 4: Working in the back loops this time, insert the dark pink and sc around (76) ss to first to join.

RND 5: (V-Stitch round): ch 2, turn. Ch 2 more, D.C. In the same stitch. Repeat the following all the way around: *skip 2, (dc, ch 2, dc)* ss to first to join.

RND 6: (Cluster round) ss into the ch-2 space, ch 2, work the following (yo, insert hook, yo, pull through, yo pull through two loops on hook (two loops remaining), yo, insert hook, yo pull through, yo, pull through two loops on hook, to, pull through remaining three loops on hook). Repeat the following all the way around: *ch 2, work a cluster stitch in the next ch-2 space* (see note below). Ss to first to join (25 clusters)

NOTE Cluster Stitch: yo, insert hook, yo, pull through, yo, pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yo, insert hook, yo, pull through, yo, pull through two loops on hook (three loops left on hook), yo, insert hook, yo, pull through, yo, pull through two loops on hook, yo, pull through remaining four loops on hook.

RND 7: ch 2, work 3 dc in each ch-2 space all the way around (76), ss to first to join.

OPTIONAL: to add length to the skirt portion of the dress, {ch 2 and Repeat the following all the way around: *dc* (76), ss to first to join.} Repeat the {} until desired additional length is reached.

RND 8: ch 2, Repeat the following all the way around: *dc 9, dc2tog* (70), ss to first to join.

RND 9: ch 2, dc 4, Repeat the following 6 times: *dc2tog, dc 8*, dc 4, (63), ss to first to join.

RND 10: ch 2, Repeat the following all the way around: *dc2tog, dc 7* (56), ss to first to join.

RND 11: ch 2, dc 3, Repeat the following 6 times: *dc2tog, dc 6*, dc 3 (49), ss to first to join.

RND 12: ch 2, Repeat the following all the way around: *dc 5, dc2tog* (42), ss to first to join.

Continue on into the bodice of the dress. Do not finish off.

RND 13: ch 2, working in the BLO (back loops only) for this round, dc all the way around (42), ss to first to join.

OPTIONAL: to add length to the bodice portion of the dress, {ch 2 and Repeat the following all the way around: *dc* (42), ss to first to join.} Repeat the {} until desired additional length is reached.

OPTION: You can continue working in the round, joining with a ss at the end of each RND, or as I have it written, you can leave the back of the dress open and create button holes. If you choose the former option, don’t forget to “ss to first to join”, and do not turn. ☺

RND 14: ch 2, turn, working in both loops again, dc all the way around (42)

RND 15: ch 4 (button hole), turn, dc all the way around (42)

RND 16: ch 2, turn, dc all the way around (42)

RND 17: ch 4 (button hole), turn, dc all the way around (42), color change to white (or sleeve color)

RND 18: ch 1, turn, sc 8, ch 12, skip 5 stitches, sc 16, ch 12, skip 5 stitches, sc 8.

RND 19: ch 1, turn, sc 8, work 12 sc into the ch-12 space, sc 16, work 12 sc into the ch-12 space, sc 8 (56).

RND 20: ch 1, turn, sc 7, Sc2tog, sc 10, Sc2tog, sc 14, Sc2tog, sc 10, Sc2tog, sc 7 (52).

RND 21: ch 4 (button hole), turn, sc 6, Sc2tog, sc 9, Sc2tog, sc 13, Sc2tog, sc 9, Sc2tog, sc 7 (48) finish off.

Skirt Ruffle

This is the drape that hangs down on top of the skirt that is the typical look of the Disney Princess style (specifically Aurora or Sleeping Beauty). Locate the first round of the bodice where you dc in just the back loops. Locate the back center of these loops (where the seam is), count over 5 stitches, draw up a loop of light pink, and continue with the first side ruffle.

Side ruffle: ROW 1: ch 2, dc 10 (10)

ROW 2: ch 2, turn, dc2tog, dc 6, dc2tog (8)

ROW 3: ch 2, turn, dc2tog, dc 4, dc2tog (6)

ROW 4: ch 2, turn, dc2tog, dc 2, dc2tog (4)

ROW 5: ch 2, turn, dc2tog twice (2), ch 1 and finish off.

Front Ruffle: count over 1 stitch, draw up a loop

ROW 1: ch 1, sc 11 (11)

ROW 2: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 7, sc2tog (9)

ROW 3: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 5, sc2tog (7)

ROW 4: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 3, sc2tog (5)

ROW 5: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 1, sc2tog (3)

ROW 6: ch 1, turn, sc3tog (1), ch 1 and finish off.

Count over 1 stitch, draw up a loop, and create the other side Ruffle.

Count over 1 stitch, draw up a loop and create the back Ruffle (same as the front Ruffle).

Optional: insert hook into the side of any Ruffle and sc all the way around. Sc2tog in the “valleys” and ch 3 on the “peaks” of each Ruffle.

Crown

Using f-sized hook and gold color, ch 51

RND 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc 21, hdc 1, dc 1, htrc 1, dc 1, hdc 1, sc 23 (50), being careful not to twist, ss to first to join making a large hoop.

RND 2: ch 1, sc 22, hdc 2 in the next, dc 2 in the next, htrc 2 in the next, dc 2 in the next, hdc 2 in the next, sc 23 (55), ss to first to join.

RND 3: ss 21, work 2 hdc in each of the next 2, dc 1, ch 2, ss in second ch from hook, dc 1, work 2 hdc in each of the next 2, sc 2, ss 22 (59), finish off and add desired embellishments.

Slippers

Make 2 of these using F-sized hook and dark pink color, ch 10

RND: 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc 7, work 5 sc all into that last stitch. Now, working on the opposite side of that starting ch, sc 7, work 2 sc both into that last stitch (22), ss to first to join.

RND 2: ch 1, hdc 7, work 2 hdc in each of the next 5, hdc 7, work 2 hdc in each of the last 2 (30) ss to first to join.

RND 3: ch 1, hdc 12, work 2 hdc in each of the next 3, hdc 12, work 2 hdc in each of the last 2 (36), color change to white, ss to first to join.

RND 4: ch 1, hdc all the way around (36), ss to first to join.

RND 5: ch 1, hdc 12, dc2tog six times, hdc 12 (30), ss to first to join.

RND 6: ch 1, sc 12, dc2tog 4 times, sc 11 (28), color change to light pink, ss to first to join.

RND 7: ss all the way around (28) and finish off.

Attach buttons to the back of the dress and embellish as desired. I added sequins in a few choice positions, you can make flowers, hearts, use beads, bows, or other jewelies. This is even precious without anything extra.