Plans for a New Year!!


After taking a huge break for all of last year (due to picking up a network marketing job (PLEXUS)), I am back and as ready as ever to share my craft-selling secrets! While I may not have been as active online, I have had *huge* craft-selling success this past year, and I’ve got so many tips, tricks, and secrets ready to share with all of you.

IMG_2996The first thing that I am doing to get ready for a GREAT new year, is starting up my CAL again! And it’s going to be even better than it was in 2014. What is a CAL? That stands for Crochet-a-long. Basically, I make cute little outfits for my crochet dolls, and I publish the patterns (for free) so that other people can also make the cute little outfits. Before we can get started (In January), you will need to create your doll. Hopefully, by starting now, I am giving everyone ample time to create their dolls and get ready to follow along as I post new patterns strategically. BUT, these patterns are only going to be available for free to those wonderful crafters who are part of my ravelry group. So, if you are interested, make sure that you join in (http://www.ravelry.com/groups/design-a-doll-cal).

I have spent the last year having a lot of fun with art journaling and bible journaling, and my ideas are just exploding! So, definitely stay on the look-out for some different methods, ideas, and inspirations for your own journaling desires!

First and foremost, this is a blog about “how to sell your hand-made crafts”, and as I have learned more about network marketing this past year (from selling Plexus!), I have also learned more about how to expand and increase my own crafty sales. I will be sharing my learnings with all of you guys. It’s going to be a great year, and I cannot wait to share it with all of you :-)

Mermaid Doll


My Ravelry store is experiencing a bit of a malfunction right now. As I work with the administration to get that fixed, you will be able to find my mermaid doll pattern here (at least temporarily). This pattern includes instructions for making the doll (tail, fins, arms, head), attaching hair, and a basic net-styled dress that is just perfect for any little mermaid.

MATERIALS NEEDED

  • Hook size G/6 – 4.25MM (I like to use a smaller hook to make these dolls (E/4 – 3.50MM), but it is harder to work with the thick yarn and the small hook. If you do use a smaller hook, keep that in your mind. Any additional outfits that you make for these dolls must also be worked in the same hook size as the doll)
  • Worsted weight yarn, in desired colors (I really like and prefer using Caron Simply Soft, but I’ve used Red Heart Super Saver to excellent results as well. A finer-thread yarn will need to be doubled up).
  • Tapestry Needle – optional for sewing in ends and attaching embellishments

Abbreviations Used

  • Ch – Chain
  • Ss – Slip stitch – Insert hook.  Yo, pull through all loops on hook.
  • Sc – Single crochet – insert hook.  Yo, pull through, Yo, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Sc2tog – Single crochet 2 together – insert hook into first stitch, yo, pull through, insert hook into second stitch, yo, pull through, yo, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Hdc – Half double crochet – Yo, insert hook.  Yo, pull through, Yo, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Hdc2tog – Half double crochet 2 together – Yo, insert hook into first space, Yo, pull through, Yo, insert hook into second space, Yo, pull through, Yo, pull through all loops on hook.
  • Dc – Double crochet – Yo, insert hook.  Yo, pull through, Yo, pull through one loop on hook.  Yo, pull through remaining loop on hook.
  • Dc2tog – Double crochet 2 together – Yo, insert hook into first space, Yo, pull through, Yo, pull through two loops on hook, Yo, insert hook into second space, Yo, pull through, Yo, pull through two loops on hook, Yo, pull through remaining three loops on hook.
  • Trc – Treble Crochet – Yo twice, insert hook, Yo, pull through, Yo, pull through two loops on hook, Yo, pull through two loops on hook, Yo, pull through remaining two loops
  • Inc – Increase – Work two stitches both in the next stitch.

 

IMG_5179The Tail

With desired color:

RND 1: Ch 2, work 4 sc all into the second ch from hook (5).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1 (Designer’s note: To minimize the twisting effect that oftentimes occurs while working in the round, ch 1 counts as a sc (unless otherwise stated), and turn after every rnd)

RND 2: Inc, sc 1, inc, sc 2 (7).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn

RND 3: Inc, sc 2, inc, sc 3 (9).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn

RND 4: Inc, sc 3, inc, sc 4 (11).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn

RND 5: Inc, sc 4, inc, sc 5 (13).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn.

RND 6: Inc, sc 5, inc, sc 46(15).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn

RND 7: Sc all the way around (15).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn

RND 8: Inc, sc 6, inc, sc 7 (17), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 9: Sc all the way around (17), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 10: Inc, sc 7, inc, sc 8 (19), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 11: Sc all the way around (19), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn

RND 12: Inc, sc 8, inc, sc 9 (21), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 13: Sc all the way around (21), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 14: Inc, sc 9, inc, s 10 (23), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 15: Sc all the way around (23), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 16: Inc, sc 10, inc, sc 11 (25), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RNDs 17-20: Sc all the way around (25), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 21: BLO (Working this RND in the Back Loops Only), ss 2, sc 2, hdc 2, work 2 dc in the next, hdc 2, sc 2, ss1, sc 2, hdc 2, work 2 dc in the next, hdc 2, sc 2, ss 3, finish off.

IMG_5178Tail Fins

Using the same color as the tail, and making two:

RND 1: Ch 2, work 4 sc all into the second ch from hook (5).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1 (Designer’s note: To minimize the twisting effect that oftentimes occurs while working in the round, ch 1 counts as a sc (unless otherwise stated), and turn after every rnd)

RND 2: Inc, sc 1, inc, sc 2 (7).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn

RND 3: Inc, sc 2, inc, sc 3 (9).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn

RND 4: Inc, sc 3, inc, sc 4 (11).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn

RND 5: Inc, sc 4, inc, sc 5 (13).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn.

RND 6: Inc, sc 5, inc, sc 46(15).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn

RND 7: Sc all the way around (15).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn
RND 8: Repeat RND 7

RND 9: Sc2tog, sc 5, sc2tog, sc 6 (13), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 10: Sc2tog, sc 4, sc2tog, sc 5 (11), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 11: Sc all the way around (11), finish off. Leave long tail for sewing on.

This is a great time to stuff the tail, stuff the fins lightly, and sew the fins onto the tail. To do this: Pinch the fins flat, position them as close to the bottom tip of the tail as you can, and then whip-stitch them into place.

 

Head

Optional: You can start off with the hair color, I think that this makes the hair look thicker while using less pieces of yarn, or you can just use the skin color and ignore all of the color changes.

RND 1: Ch 2, work 4 sc all into the second ch from hook (5).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1 (Designer’s note: To minimize the twisting effect that oftentimes occurs while working in the round, ch 1 counts as a sc (unless otherwise stated), and turn after every rnd)

RND 2: Inc all the way around (10).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn

RND 3: *Inc, sc 1* all the way around (15).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn

RND 4: *Inc, sc 2* all the way around (20). Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn.

RND 5: *Inc, sc 3* all the way around (25), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

IMG_5491 copyRND 6: *Inc, sc 4* all the way around (30), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 6: Inc, sc 11, inc (color change to skin color), sc 5 (color change back to hair color), inc, sc 11 (33), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 7: Sc 11 (color change to skin color), sc 9 (color change back to hair color), sc 11 (33), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 8: Sc 9 (color change to skin color), sc 13 (color change back to hair color), sc 9 (33), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 9: Sc 8 (color change to skin color), sc 15 (color change back to hair color), sc 8 (33), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 10: Sc 7 (color change to skin color), sc 17 (color change back to hair color), sc 7 (33), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 11: Sc 6 (color change to skin color), sc 19 (color change back to hair color), sc 6 (33), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 12: Sc 5 (color change to skin color), sc 21 (color change back to hair color), sc 5 (33), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 13: Sc 4 (color change to skin color), sc 23 (color change back to hair color), sc 4 (33), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 14: Sc 3 (color change to skin color), sc 25 (color change back to hair color), sc 3 (33), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

IMG_5177 copyRND 15: Sc 2 (color change to skin color), sc 27 (color change back to hair color), sc 2 (33), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

Now is a great point to attach eyes, mouth, and stuff the head. I like to create eye-lashes with some black crochet-thread. I also like to insert a dowel rod (or pictured is an unsharpened pencil with the eraser removed) to keep the neck sturdy. I usually hot-glue the wooden rod into the head, and then into the body so as to keep the doll from stretching out. Just be sure that the doll is never left out in the heat, or put into the dryer ;-P

RND 16: *sc2tog, sc 2* all the way around (20), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 17: *sc2tog* all the way around (10), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 18: sc all the way around (10), ss to first to join, finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing onto the body later.

Arms

Make two of these in the skin color:

RND 1: Ch 2, work 4 sc all into the second ch from hook (5).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1 (Designer’s note: To minimize the twisting effect that oftentimes occurs while working in the round, ch 1 counts as a sc (unless otherwise stated), and turn after every rnd)

IMG_5177RND 2: Inc all the way around (10).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn

RND 3 (optional: To make a braelet, work this RND in the desired color, switch back to skin color after this RND), sc in each stitch around (10), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RNDs 4-17: Sc all the way around (10), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

Finish off and weave in the tail (you won’t need it)

Body

This is done a little bit differently, but don’t freak out, you can do it. I’ve included a lot of pictures and if you are still confused, just send me an email (familybugs@gmail.com) and I will be more than happy to walk you through it.

The first thing that you are going to do, is take your skin color, and make a little disk. This little disk is going to separate the tail from the body. Why? structural reasons. Your doll will be sturdier and better quality, and not as floppy. Just trust me and do it, ok?

RND 1: Ch 2, work 4 sc all into the second ch from hook (5).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1 (Designer’s note: To minimize the twisting effect that oftentimes occurs while working in the round, ch 1 counts as a sc (unless otherwise stated), and turn after every rnd)

RND 2: Inc all the way around (10).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn

RND 3: *Inc, sc 1* all the way around (15).  Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn

RND 4: *Inc, sc 2* all the way around (20). Ss to first to join. Ch 1, turn.

RND 5: *Inc, sc 3* all the way around (25), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 6: Ok, now notice the pictures for this next part. What you are going to do is place this little disk over the top of the fin. Make sure that you insert your hook through both the FLO of RND 20 from the tail, and both loops of RND 5 from the disk. You can do it, I have faith in you. Sc all the way around. Did you get it? I knew you could!!! (25), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RNDs 7-11: Sc all the way around (25), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 12: The little bikini is optional, but I think that every proper mermaid must be covered with a cute little undergarment. Sc 7 (color change to bikini color) sc 5 (color change back to skin color) sc 1 (color change to bikini color) sc 5 (color change back to skin color) sc 7 (25), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

IMG_5219 copyRND 13: Sc 7 (color change to bikini color) sc 4 (color change back to skin color) sc 2 (color change to bikni color) sc 4 (color change bck to skin color) sc 8 (25), ss to first to join, ch12, turn.

RND 14: Sc 8 (color change to bikini color) sc 3 (color change back to skin color) sc 3 (color change to bikini color) sc 3 (color change back to skin color) sc 8 (25) ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 15: Sc 8 (color change to bikini color) sc 2 (color change back to skin color) sc 4 (color change to bikini color) sc 2 (color change back to skin color) sc 9 (25), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 16: Attaching the arms is done in the next two RNDs. Sc 6, ss 3 through both the body and the arms (done in the exact same way that the body disk was joined to the mermaid’s tail), sc 1 (color change to bikini color), sc 1 (color change to skin color), sc 5 (color change to bikini color), sc 1 (color change to skin color), sc 1, ss 3 through both the body and the arms, sc 5 (25), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

This is where I like to take the time to stuff the body and attach your dowel rod (or pencil) to the base of the body. You might need to do some measuring and cut off a bit of the wooden support so that it fits comfortably inside your doll without stretching it out any. Remember: You can always cut more off, but you can’t add anymore to the rod.

RND 17: Sc 4, sc2tog all the way around the arm (4), sc 9, sc2tog all the way around the arm (4), sc 4, ss to first to join, ch 1 and turn (25), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 18: *Sc 2, sc2tog* all the way around (20), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 19: *sc2tog* all the way around (10), ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

IMG_5220RND 20: Sc all the way around (10), ss to first to join, and finish off leaving a long tail for sewing the head on.

Whip stitch the head onto the body, and voila! You are finished!!! Now, you can add the hair however you want (I’ve included a tutorial in this pattern to get you started), and you can also make her a pretty little net-like dress :-) I also like to take a q-tip and apply a bit of blush to her cheeks. Really gives her a nice feminine look.

Mermaid Dress

IMG_5519

Start with first color (the color of the bodice), and Ch 37

RND 1: Sc in second ch from hook, sc 5 more, Ch 3, skip the next 6 stitches, sc 12, ch 3, skip the next 6 stitches, sc 6 (30). Being careful not to twist, ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RND 2: Sc 6, work 3 sc into the ch-3 space, sc 12, work 3 sc into the ch-3 space, sc 6 (30).  Ss to first to join, ch 1, turn.

RNDs 3-8: Sc all the way around (30).  Ss to first to join, ch 1 and turn.

RND 9: Change to a belt color, sc all the way around (30), ss to first to join, ch 1 and turn.

RND 10: Change to skirt color, *sc, ch 1, skip 1* all the way around (30), ss to first to join, turn.

RND 11: *Ch 2, sc in each ch-1space* all the way around, ss to first to join, turn.

RND 12: *Ch 3, sc in each ch-2 space* all the way around, ss to first to join, turn.

RND 13: *Ch 4, sc in each ch-3 space* all the way around, ss to first to join, turn.

RND 14: *Ch 5, sc in each ch-4 space* all the way around, ss to first to join, turn.

RNDs 15-16: *Ch 5, sc in each ch-5 space* all the way around, ss to first to join, turn.

RND 17: Change to a finishing color, there are actually three different ways that you can finish off this dress.
SIMPLE
Work 5 sc stitches in each ch-5 space all the way around.
RUFFLY
Work 8 sc stitches in each ch-5 space all the way around.
SCALLOPED
*Sc, hdc, dc, ch 1, trc, ch 1, dc, hdc, sc* in each ch-5 space all the way around.

Pikachu Crochet Pattern :-)


IMG_1710Memorial day weekend was rainy and cold in West Texas where I hail from. So, I took advantage of the time and finished up several crochet patterns that have been needing some final touches. I am very exited to announce that Pikachu has been published and is ready for purchase from my ETSY SHOP. And as with all of my crochet patterns, you DO have permission to sell any finished products made from my patterns, but please do not copy or redistribute the pattern itself. Also, I am not affiliated with Nintendo…

But, isn’t it just cute! I really like how the tail turned out. There are three different sizes available 0-6 months, 6-12 months, and 12-24 months. Which includes like 6 different hat sizes, but it’s all good :-) Super easy to read pattern with lots of pictures to talk you along the way, you don’t have to be an expert crochet-er to figure it out. Basic stitches (Chain, Single Crochet, Half-double Crochet, Single Crochet two Together (Sc2tog), Slip Stitch, and that’s really it!).

You can always go HERE to check out all of Family Bugs’ crochet patterns (several of them are *FREE*), and share the love on Pinterest and facebook!!

Wonderwoman Crochet Pattern!!


IMG_1736I am very exited to announce the release of Wonderwoman to my list of superhero crochet patterns for infants and toddlers!! There are three different sizes available 0-6 months, 6-12 months, and 12-24 months. As always, I DO give permission for anyone to sell any finished products they make from my patterns, but please, do not copy or redistribute the pattern itself in any way!

It can be a dress-up outfit, or a halloween costume, or even an adorable swim-suit! I just love how it turned out :-D Go check it out in my ETSY SHOP!! It is a real easy pattern to work-up, you don’t have to be an expert crochet-er to figure it out. Basic stitches (Chain, Single Crochet, Half-double Crochet, Single Crochet two Together (Sc2tog), Slip Stitch, and that’s really it!).

photo(148)

Free Crochet Patterns!!


Do you have a crochet-based blog? Do you love working on new patterns? Would you like to “test-drive” one of FamilyBugs patterns for free? I am looking for crochet-bloggers to write positive reviews for my crochet patterns. I will send you one of my crochet patterns to your email (via pdf attachment), and all you have to do is work my pattern and then write about your experience on your blog!

Leave a comment here (or send an email to familybugs@gmail.com) with the following information:

  • Your blog address
  • Your email address
  • Which one of my patterns you would like to use

Then: If you would kindly leave a review on your blog about how awesome my pattern was and recommending FamilyBugs to your readers, and that’s it! This isn’t for pattern testing, I do not require any correcting or double checking of these patterns. ALL of my patterns that are currently available are listed HERE, and this is an updated list! Please, one pattern per blogger, I do still need to make some money off of these :-)

Looking for little models


As a crochet pattern designer, I am always looking for someone who is willing/able to take photos of my products with models. I am willing to exchange the photo prop for 4-5 professional-grade photographs. If you are interested please check the list below for what I currently need, and then send an email to familybugs@gmail.com

To subscribe to Family Bug’s newsletter and get FIRST CHANCES, just click HERE

Wonderwoman, size Newborn up to 2T (just one)

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Supergirl, size Newborn up to 2T (just one)

IMG_1320 IMG_0074

Batgirl, size Newborn up to 2T (just one)

If you have a batman then you need a batgirl to go with him, right?

If you have a batman then you need a batgirl to go with him, right?

//

Draculaura crochet pattern


Being modeled by my 3-yr old daughter. This hat should fit up to 10 years old!

Being modeled by my 3-yr old daughter. This hat should fit up to 10 years old!

Just recently, I had someone request a crochet pattern for a Draculaura hat for little kids. Well, after spending about a week and a half on it (off and on, of course), I managed to come up with one. I am not too happy with how the eyes have turned out, therefore, I am offering it as a FREE crochet pattern!! This hat should fit any child from 3-years old on up to 10-years old. If you have any questions about this crochet pattern (or any other crochet pattern from me), just shoot me a comment, or an email at FamilyBugs@Gmail.com and I will help you just as soon as I can :-)

Also: I always take requests for making specific crochet patterns (offered for free, like this one, or at a highly discounted rate), so if there’s something you want, just contact me and I will see what I can do!!

MATERIALS NEEDED

  • Hook Size: J/10-6.00 MM and G/6-4.25MM
  • Yarn Type: Worsted Weight (I use Red Heart Super Saver), in black, white, pink (any shade, I used baby pink) tan, and a purple color

Stitches Used

  • Ss – Slip Stitch
  • Sc – Single Crochet
  • Hdc – Half Double Crochet
  • Dc – Double Crochet
  • Inc – Increase = Work two of the same stitch both into the next stitch
  • Hdc2tog – Half Double Crochet 2 Together – Yarn over hook, Insert hook into first designated stitch. Yarn over hook and pull through stitch. Yarn over hook and insert hook into second designated stitch. Yarn over hook and pull through stitch, Yarn over hook and pull through all 5 loops on hook.
  • Dc2tog – Double Crochet 2 Together – Yarn over hook, insert hook into first designated stitch, Yarn over hook, and pull through stitch, yarn over hook and pull through two loops on hook (half of a double crochet stitch). Yarn over hook and insert hook into second designated stitch, yarn over hook and pull through stitch, yarn over hook and pull through two loops on hook, yarn over hook and pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Sc2Tog – Single Crochet 2 Together – Insert hook into first available space. Yarn over, pull through. Insert hook into second available space. Yarn over, pull through. Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook (also called an invisible decrease).

Gauge Swatch – This is used to determine if your tension and hook is going to create a similarly sized product at the end.  After completing this, if your swatch measures larger, you might want to choose a smaller hook and complete another gauge swatch.  If your swatch measures smaller, choose a larger hook and try again.

Ch 16
ROW 1: Sc in second ch from hook and all the way across (15) Ch 2, turn.
ROW 2: Dc all the way across (15) Ch 1, turn.
ROWs 3, 5: Repeat Row 1
ROWs 4, 6: Repeat Row 2
Finish off.  Swatch should measure pretty close to 5.5” X 3″


Basic Hat
There are lots of color changes in making the basic hat that is Draculaura. Please don’t freak out, I’m going to talk you through every step of the way :-)
With J hook (and black color)

This is what you should get after all of the increase RNDs...It's a very nice striped effect, no?

This is what you should get after all of the increase RNDs…It’s a very nice striped effect, no?

RND 1: Ch 3. Work this entire RND all in that 3rd ch from hook: Dc 2, color change to pink, dc 1, color change to black, dc 1, color change to pink, dc 2, color change to black, dc 2, color change to pink, dc 1, color change to black, dc 1, color change to pink, dc 2, color change to black, dc 2, color change to pink, dc 2 (16). Ss to first to join. For the rest of the pattern, whenever a color change is needed, there will be the abbreviation: CCP (for Color Change Pink), CCB (for Color Change Black), or CCT (for Color Change Tan)

RND 2: Ch 2 (does NOT count as dc here or throughout) and turn: Inc, dc CCB Inc, dc, CCP inc, dc, CCB inc, CCP dc, CCB inc, dc, CCP, inc, dc CCB dc, CCP inc, CCB inc, dc (24) Ss to first to join.

RND 3: Ch 2, and turn: Inc, dc 2 CCP Inc, dc 1, CCB dc 1, CCP inc, dc 2, CCB inc, dc 2, CCP inc, CCB dc 2, CCP inc, dc 2, CCB inc, dc 2, CCP inc, dc 2 (32) Ss to first to join.

RND 4: Ch 2 and turn, Inc, dc 3 CCB Inc, dc 3, CCP inc, dc 3, CCB inc, dc 1, CCP dc 2, CCB inc, dc 3, CCP inc, dc 3, CCB inc, CCP dc 3, CCB inc, dc 3. (40) Ss to first to join.

RND 5: (Last increasing round) Ch 2 and turn, Inc, dc 4 CCP Inc, dc 2, CCB dc 2, CCP inc, dc 4, CCB inc, dc 4, CCP inc, dc 1, CCB dc 3, CCP inc, dc 4, CCB inc, dc 4, CCP inc, dc 4 (48) Ss to first to join.

RND 6: Ch 2 and turn, dc 6 CCB dc 6, CCP dc 6, CCB dc 3, CCP dc 3, CCB dc 6, CCP dc 6, CCB dc 2, CCP dc 4, CCB dc 6 (48). Ss to first to join.

This is without the attachment of the pigtails or eyes. Congratulations! You made it through all of the color changes!!

This is without the attachment of the pigtails or eyes. Congratulations! You made it through all of the color changes!!

RND 7: Ch 2 and turn, dc 6 CCP dc 4, CCB dc 2, CCP dc 6, CCB dc 6, CCP dc 3, CCB dc 3, CCP dc 6, CCB dc 6, CCBP dc 6 (48). Ss to first to join.

RND 8: Ch 2 and turn, dc 6 CCB dc 6, CCP dc 5, CCT dc 16, CCP dc 3, CCB dc 2, CCP dc 4, CCB dc 6 (48). Ss to first to join.

RND 9: Ch 2 and turn, dc 6, CCP dc 4, CCB dc 2, CCP dc 3, CCT, dc 16, CCP dc 5, CCB dc 6, CCP dc 6 (48), ss to first to join.

RND 10: Repeat RND 8

RND 11: Repeat RND 9


Pig Tails
With J hook (and starting with pink color), make two of the following

I just LOVE the little curlies at the bottom of the pig-tails...cute!!

I just LOVE the little curlies at the bottom of the pig-tails…cute!!

ROW 1: Ch 41. Ss in second ch from hook, sc 1, work 2 sc in the next, hdc 2, hdc2tog twice, dc 5, work 2 dc in the next, dc 2, work 2 dc in the next, dc 2, dc2tog, dc 11, dc2tog, dc 1, dc2tog twice (37), color change to black, ch 1 and turn.

ROW 2: Sc 2, sc2tog, sc 2, sc2tog, sc 10, work 2 sc in the next, sc 3, work 2 sc in the next, sc 5, sc2tog, sc 2, (31), turn and ss 31 all the way back up, color change to pink, ch 1 and turn.

ROW 3: Sc 1, sc2tog, sc 3, sc2tog, sc14, work 2 sc in the next, sc 5, sc2tog (28), turn and ss 28 all the way back up, color change to black, ch 2 and turn.

ROW 4: Dc 2, dc2tog, dc 15, work 2 dc in the next, dc 2, work 2 hdc in the next, hdc 4, hdc2tog, sc 2, work 2 sc in the next, sc 1 (34), turn and ss 34 all the way back up, color change to pink, ch 1 and turn.

ROW 5: Sc 2, sc2tog, sc 1, sc2tog, sc 16, work 2 sc in the next, sc 1, ch 5, ss in second ch from hook, sc2tog twice, sc 3, work 2 sc in the next, sc 14, sc2tog twice, sc 1, ch 1 and work 7 sc stitches across the top of this. Finish off.


I could not figure out how to make them look not angry, but I do love the heave eye-liner and thick lashes. Definitely adds to the teen-angst look!

I could not figure out how to make them look not angry, but I do love the heave eye-liner and thick lashes. Definitely adds to the teen-angst look!

Eyes
With g hook (and starting with black), make two of the following

RND 1: Ch 2. work 8 sc stitches (8) color change to purple, ss to first to join, ch 1 and turn.

ROW 2: Work 2 sc stitches in each of the next 6 stitches (12), color change to white, ch 1 and turn.

ROW 3: Skip the first stitch, sc 1, work 2 sc in the next, sc 2, work 2 sc in the next, hdc 2, work 2 dc in the next, dc 1 (12), ch 2 and turn.

ROW 4: Skip the first stitch, dc 1, work 2 dc in the next, hdc 2, work 2 hdc in the next, sc 2, color change to black

RND 5: Ss, ch 1 and turn. Sc 2, work 2 sc in the next, sc 2, work 2 sc in the next, Ch 1, ss in first ch from hook, sc, Ch 1, ss in first ch from hook, sc, ch 2, ss in first ch from hook, ss into the

And there she is finished, with the pigtails and eyes attached. Perfect for any little girl in love with Monster High!!

And there she is finished, with the pigtails and eyes attached. Perfect for any little girl in love with Monster High!!

second ch, sc 1, ch 2, ss in first ch from hook, ss into second ch, sc 1, Ch 3, ss in first ch from hook, ss into the second ch, ss into the third ch, sc 1, ch 2, ss in first ch from hook, ss into the second ch, sc 1, ch 1, ss into the first ch from hook, sc 3, work 2 sc into the next, sc 2, work 2 sc into the next, sc 1, ch 1, ss into the first ch from hook, sc 4, ss to first to join and finish off.

Take some white yarn and stitch in a little bit of a “sparkle” in the center of the eye, making sure that it is the same for both eyes. And voila! Attach the eyes to the tan part of the hat, and attach the pig tails to the back of the hat (making sure that they point outwards and curl in the right direction). And it is finished!!